“San Marco square is the reason people visit Venice. Cannaregio is the reason people come back.” This probably isn’t a true saying, but it certainly rings true for me. San Marco Square definitely has its appeal. Of course it does, there’s a reason why thousands of tourists flock to this city every year. In my previous post, I’ve tried to capture the charm and beauty of the square in photographs. However, Cannaregio’s peace and quiet is incomparable even though it’s only a stone throw away. I have advised colleagues and friends to visit those quiet canals for a fancy dinner, and they all came back smitten with it. This post will be dedicated to this area of the city. I will also touch upon the Castello area. Although I didn’t visit it as extensively as Cannaregio, I did visit a gorgeous bookshop I’m still dreaming about today.
Cannaregio
The district of Cannaregio is known for the 16th-century Jewish Ghetto. It’s not an easy district to describe due to the fact that it’s mainly just fun to walk around in, but there are a few popular streets. The first one is the Strada Nova which is a popular local shopping thoroughfare, and the backstreets are a destination for crafts and vintage goods. Finally, there are the Fondamenta della Misericordia and Fondamenta Dei Ormesini where you can find delicious & casual restaurants by the canal.
Full confession: I want to let you all know my love for this district. However, I’m fully aware I’ve done a bad job at taking photos of all the different main sights. Better yet, I have hardly visited any of the sights. I would advise you to go to Cannaregio like I did, with no idea what to expect. Just walk around and then have dinner at one of the delicious restaurants. I will still give you an idea of what there is to find in this neighbourhood according to the guidebooks.
Ca’ d’Oro
This is one of the oldest palaces in the city. Its name means ‘golden house’. If you see it, you’ll probably guess why. Since the early 20th century, the building has been used as a museum. Its gallery has lovely views over the canal. I didn’t visit this gallery inside so I can’t give you any first-hand tips or tricks, but I’ve heard it’s worth a visit.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
Santa Maria dei Miracoli is known as the “marble church”. It is one of the best examples of the early Venetian Renaissance style including the coloured marble.
Fondamente della Misericordia
This is a place I have actually visited. It’s also my favourite street in Venice, because it houses all the delicious restaurants. This really is the place to be when you’re looking for good restaurants and bars. In the next section I will give you some tips.
Jewish Ghetto
Have you ever wondered where the name ghetto was first used? Wonder no longer, because I have the answer for you here. The Jewish Ghetto of Venice is the first place where Jews lived segregated from the rest of the city. This ghetto dates back to the 16th century. You’ll still find a big Jewish community living here.
Madonna dell’Orto
Another church apparently worth a visit, which I didn’t. Madonna dell’Orto was initially dedicated to St. Christopher, patron saint of travellers. However, its name changed after a century when a beautiful Madonna statue was brought and rejected by the church and then placed in a nearby orchard (orto). This is a gorgeous gothic church with a brick facade.
Gesiuti
I did visit and photograph I Gesiuti, an overpowering baroque church. What I liked most about this church is its interior. There’s a painting inside which almost looks lifelike. The painting itself is almost completely dark, except for a bright light shining from the sky. Check it out when you’re in the area.
Restaurant tips in Cannaregio
I can most highly recommend Al Mariner, because that’s where I had dinner. I loved the fact that there was plenty of seating by the canal. The lobster and spaghetti dish was affordable and so was the prosecco.
Other tips are:
- Osteria al Chicheto – for the Venetian “small snacks” in the shape of tiny sandwiches, olives, boiled eggs, small seafood, meat and vegetables
- Ristorant Levante
- Tintoretto
- Timon all’Antica Mola
Castello
Castello encompasses a large part of the city of Venice.
There are beautiful walks along the water you can make here, all the way to gardens (Giardini della Biennale) at the eastern end of the city. I can’t describe any of this in detail because this time around I made my way directly to my destination. A beautiful bookstore.
Libreria Acqua Alta
I had seen photos of this bookstore on Instagram and I knew I had to visit.
This shop is laden with books. Absolutely filled to the rim. There are two gardens, also filled with books. If that isn’t all, there are also resident cats roaming around.
It’s fun to browse through the store, although it would be incredibly difficult to find a book you want among the heaps and heaps of books.
It’s a nice place to just come for a visit, especially if you like books as much as I do.
Conclusion
I always correct people when they say that Venice is expensive and busy. There are more districts than only San Marco. I would love to visit Murano and Burano one day, but there are other districts worth exploring which I didn’t mention here. I can’t wait to make my way back to Venice, and when I do I’ll definitely stay farther away from San Marco than this time around.
Please note, this post contains affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission for purchased goods/services at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting my writing!
